Strudel on the Beach

Strudel on the Beach

Montenegro is famous for its beaches on the Bay of Kotor but more particularly along the Adriatic Cost. Mega resorts have sprung up and attract holidaymakers from all over Europe notably Ukranians and Russians who just can’t get enough of the sun, the nightlife, the  casinos and betting shops and, of course, the shopping! Among the resorts is Budva – it evens sounds Russian! This is a sprawling Gold Coast-ish development that unashamedly provides everything for everyone including ,we are told, pole-dancing clubs that allow patrons to bring their children!

Among the glitzy high-rise hotels and dreary Soviet-inspired apartment blocks that line this part of the coast is a little slice of heaven called Sveti Stefan. It is an enclave of secluded beachfront, tasteful hotels built of attractive local limestone, lovely parkland, scenic coastal walkways lined with pungent pines and attractive pomegranate trees, and a quaint little island connected to the mainland by a 120m spit. The island was originally a fishing village but after its “discovery” by the1960s jetset, it was converted into a luxury hotel. Like many developments here, it fell into disrepair but recently was revamped and has reopened as a five star resort. It is definitely out of bounds to day trippers.  

Us mere mortals view it from the beach, happy just to enjoy the moment, soak up the sun and wallow in the clear, blue, warm sea. It is easy to get comfy on the coarse pink “sand” which can be scooped to accommodate bodies of all dimensions – from the lean to the leviathan! Very little English is spoken on this beach. There are some British lads playing cards and swilling the local brew and a handsome Spanish family dressed (or undressed) to the nines. It is difficult for us to differentiate between the Russian, Serb and Montenegran tongues but they are here in force. The bikini-clad girls discretely change their swimming costumes after each dip while their male companions remain in their comparatively modest stretchy, boy-legged bathers.

There are sun lounges to hire. The front row nearest the water commands the highest price while 2 lounges and an umbrella is the fourth row are just 10 euros for the day. There is a refreshment kiosk to buy drinks and icecreams while the real food is supplied by a vendor carrying a bag of cooked corn on the cob, punnets of raspberries and blueberries and, to our delight, three types of strudel. We opt for cherry but could have had apple or cheese and spinach. Quite delicious. Fortunately there are no seagulls to contend with but there are plenty of pigeons and sparrows to peck at the crumbs.

After a couple of swims and soaking up the rays we head south along the coastal track to Przno for lunch. What a lovely little place packed with sun worshippers. At a beachside café is a family and their pampered cocker spaniel complete with diamond studded collar. He is allowed to sit up at the table until it’s time to have some fun on their elaborate rubber duckie. The adults and kids pile aboard willy nilly while Rover takes pride of place on the bow – but not before being carefully strapped into a doggie life jacket. No such safety equipment for the children though!