Mykonos is renowned for its beaches but one of the most
picturesque and desirable stretches of golden sand is rarely mentioned in guide
books. References to the location appear on maps but we have deduced that “A Listers” and
the idle rich have claimed it as their own private playground and have kept Psarou Beach out of publications like the Lonely Planet.
However, as this gorgeous little cove is practically
adjacent to our quarters here on magical Mykonos, it was not long before we
discovered it on a sunrise wander along a local cliff-top path. A couple
of mega yachts and James Bond style
speed boats gave a hint that the beautiful sandy beach, amazingly clear
aquamarine water and understated elegance of the two waterfront restaurants
were not going to be wasted on the riff raff.
The Melbourne relations who had so obliging introduced us to
the high life in Santorini had done some research on Psarou and had heard that
a paparatzi drone had been snapping shots of celebrities as they frolicked on
the sands the day before our visit. The four of us arrived at this slice of
Hellenic Heaven wearing our largest sunglasses and the most confident air our
tanned bodies could muster. We could have parked our towels on the sand but “when
in Rome” or in this case, Greece ..... We sauntered up to Club Nammos and paid 15 euros
($20) each for a super super-soft sun-lounge, umbrella and deluxe towel. No, we
could not have the front row as these were reserved but the second row was more
than adequate thank you. Cool French music, samba and jazz wafted from the
restaurant and a parade of beautiful bodies unfurled before our eyes. Even
the waitress was outfitted in a tiny black bikini. The only item that set her
apart from the guests was her palm computer and pen.
Many beaches in Europe are wall-to-wall sun-lounges but not
so at Psarou. As we discovered, space is required between lounges to manoeuvre
ice buckets of Evian mineral water, trays of fruity cocktails and, in the case
of the group immediately in front us, a large aquarium of ice to chill the jeroboams
of French champagne and dozens of glasses. It turns out they were
celebrating a birthday and the guest of honour (according to the waiter, a very
rich man from Lebanon) was hosting an entourage of family and friends at Club
Nammos. The whole group could have stepped out of Vogue magazine. Even Birthday
Boy’s three handsome children and their two nannies were well turned out and
had several changes of swimwear throughout the day. The champagne kept flowing
and the male waiters (alas, they were kitted out in denim shorts and white polo
tops) were kept on the run replenishing flutes with fresh bubbles whether the
imbibers were reclining on lounges or swimming in the sparkling sea. This group
was treated as, and acted like, royalty. Certainly their budget had no limit. Each
jeroboam cost 8,200 euros!!!! This is serious wealth folks. Never ever have any
of us, including the high-flying Melbourne rels, witnessed such extravagance.
The more senior men, business tycoons in their Gucci swimmers, held
court out in the water.
They formed a semi circle and probably stitched up a
few arms deals while their women folk paraded in the latest Yves St Laurent
swimwear and resort accessories. We expected to see Jackie and Aristotle
Onassis to join them at any time. Apparently Jackie O used to come here a lot.
Such a place for people watching! Apart from our chatter,
hardly a word of English assailed our ears. The sand was immaculately groomed
by a team of boys who scooped up every last butt and bottle with a fishing net
on a long pole.
The least expensive item on the menu was a tiny brioche with
ham for five euros. The most expensive was a 30 litre vat of wine for 120,000
euros.
The previous day we hired an open-top Jeep and braved the
narrow Mykonos roads to visit the famed (and well publicised beaches) around
the island. Top of the list was a tiny cove similar to Honeymoon Bay on
Freycinet Peninsula. The swimming was DIVINE. Sorry to harp on the swimming and
the sea but the Mykonos beaches are sandy (as Australians know it) and
absolutely sublime.
Agios Sostis is better known for the tiny restaurant
perched above it than the actual beach. Kiki’s is an institution and relies
totally on word of mouth. It has no signage or electricity and closes at 7pm.
It specializes in charcoal grilled meats and the best salad bar in the
Mediterranean. It seats only 30 people on a terrace overlooking the beach and
diners start queuing about 1pm. It’s well worth the wait.
We swam before and
after our little banquet and then headed off to the more popular and
gay-friendly Elia Beach. We have a lovely beach near our hotel and the ocean is
certainly warmer than the hotel swimming pool. We are also in walking distance
of the renowned party beaches of Paradise, Paraga and Super Paradise. They are
winding down now as the end of the season approaches but the young diehards are
still at Club Tropicana at Paradise Beach dancing from dawn until the next dawn
and beyond. The doof doof music pounds away relentlessly day in day out.
Mykonos is not all beaches. The old town of Mykonos is a maze of narrow lanes idyllically set by the harbor. One part of it is
known as Little Venice despite there being not one canal in sight. However, the
famous Mykonos windmills are here as are the usual tourist shopping traps, lots
of eateries and bars and more cats than you can poke a stick at.
One of the most important archaeological sites in Greece,
the island of Delos, is just a half hour ferry ride from the old town. At this time of
year after a long dry summer, Delos looks a bit forlorn. The remnants of a
large Hellenic settlement are still in place among dead thorny weeds, a few
parched fig trees, occasional interpretation panels and more cats! It is hard to imagine such a barren place once
supported a city of 30,000 souls and was a major port for the slave trade.
Unusual sights on
Mykonos:
- · An older man on a motorbike wearing a top hat and transporting a small palm tree
- · A blond failed movie star in pink stilettos posing for photographs overlooking Myknos Harbour. Perhaps she was auditioning for a re run of Shirley Valentine or Wog Boys II, both of which were filmed here.
- · Crazy motorcyclists with a death wish
- · A hire car guy who visited Australia with the Italian beach volley team!
- · Thousands of cats, few birds and even fewer dogs
- · Jetskis abandoned in fields, discarded like old car bodies
- Clouds on our last day! It rains infrequently here. Town water is more expensive than gasoline and there is a big desalination plant to supplement two large dams. Our hotel has a large well which is topped up from time to by water trucks.
Looks like I have to get to Mykonos next trip!
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